What size shade tree to buy? is a great question no one ever asks. It seems everybody just assumes you should buy the biggest you can afford. That’s what nursery staff will tell you right?
In a previous post, I wrote about three defects you MUST check for when buying trees. That covered looking for root related issues at the nursery. Today, I would like to talk about deciding on what size shade tree to buy.
A tree is a long term investment. You should start with a high quality plant. Trees eight to ten feet tall are often the best buy as far as price.
If the tree is difficult to establish, you can start with smaller plants. The irony is that if you plant larger trees, they will usually take a lot longer to recover from transplant stress and start growing again.
Trust me I know, I spent $240 on an six foot balled and burlaped Vanderwolf’s Limber pine, and $90 each on three 3 feet tall container plants nine ago.
Do you know which ones are taller now?
The ones that were three feet tall when I planted them. You know what else. The smaller trees were a heck of a lot easier to move and plant! It was even FUN planting them!
So why are the trees that were smaller then, larger now?
Transplant Shock
Newly planted trees are stressed due to the large amount of roots that are chopped off when they are dug at the nursery. This transplant shock leads to susceptibility to drought, diseases and insects. Transplant shock lasts until the balance between the roots and the rest of the tree are reestablished.
Trees that die often do it during this root-establishment period. A new tree’s odds of making it are improved if it receives extra watering attention during this time, which can be as much as three years.
What size shade tree to buy to minimize transplant shock
If you want to know what size shade tree to buy to minimize transplant shock, here are some guidelines.
Instead of planting the biggest tree you can afford, go ahead and choose younger and smaller trees to plant over larger ones. Although you can have nearly full-sized trees planted in your yard, smaller trees transplant easier and grow quicker than larger trees. They also cost a lot less and if you choose you can probably plant them yourself. Nurseries LOVE it when I say this! Guess which ones they make the most money off of!
It’s best to start with a tree that has a 1- to 1.5 inch trunk diameter if you want it to start growing right away. Although trees up to 2.5 inch diameter can also be good as long as their root balls are sized large enough. Very small seedlings like the kind they give away at weddings or sell for $5 at Wal-Mart are too small. They take too long to grow to be useful.
But I want shade now!
All trees require time to reach their prime, but fast growers take the least. They however are often not the longest lived trees and often have brittle wood that can break easily when they get larger.
One way to get around this fact is to plant both fast and slower growing trees. The fast growers can provide shade in a hurry while the slower growing longer lived trees mature. Then you can always cut the fast growers down. Yes, you can cut a tree down!
These are trees like quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) and other poplars (Populus sp.), willows (Salix sp.), silver maples (Acer saccharinum), and alders (Alnus sp.).
Look to slower-growing trees for long, trouble-free lives and enough strength to withstand wind and ice storms. Think oak here.
You can plant fast-growing trees with slower growing ones to get fast shade. When the slower growing trees have gotten large enough you can cut out the weaker ones down. You will get the best of both world’s quick shade and long lasting strong wooded trees. You will however have the expense/hassle of removing large trees. You also might not have the room in your lot to do this.
What if you are impatient but don’t want to have to remove your fast growing trees
If you want a fast growing LARGE shade tree, but also want it to last, take a look at these trees as some possibilities:
- Autumn Blaze Freeman maple (Acer x freemanii ‘Autumn Blaze’), Zones 4–7
- Heritage river birch (Betula nigra ‘Cully’), Zones 4–9
- Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), Zones 5–9
- Dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), Zones 5–10
- Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus), Zones 4–9
- Northern red oak (Quercus rubra), Zones 5–9
- Green Vase zelkova (Zelkova serrata ‘Green Vase’), Zones 5–8
Note these are all BIG trees, If you are not sure which size of shade to to buy in terms of how big it will eventually grow, take a look at this post on that topic.
Christina says
I came across this article when searching for ‘how large a #25 tree is’ and I really appreciate the information and advice you share here. I especially appreciate the real-life photos showing the growth of your trees over the years. The idea of planting BOTH a fast-grower and a (sturdier) slow-grower at the same time and eventually removing the fast-grower was a major revelation for me. (You can chop trees down!?) I’m not sure why an idea so simple and logical blew my mind, but it did! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Katie says
I’m so glad I stumbled onto this site! Thank you for sharing your knowledge… So much great information here.
Helen says
My husband and I are in mid seventies so like many don’t feel like we can wait 20 years for full shade over our deck. We live in St. Louis MO. We can grow magnolias here. We thought about the kind that keep green leaves in winter. Do they grow quickly? I know they don’t send branches far out but are thick. Theirs is what we need. The tree will be very near edge of deck and need to block sun more at sunset than mid day. What would you suggest?
Jim says
I would install a pergola and maybe grow some vines on it. Instant shade.
TC says
Any chance you can share a picture of the maple tree nowadays? Thank you.
Diane says
Hi Jim,
We are getting ready to remodel our house and in order to add a garage to our home we are having to cut down an large carob tree in our front yard. I’m guess the tree is over 50 years old. I’m torn about having to cut the tree down but 3 very large branches have broken off over the years and the tree leans over so the roots are pulling out of the ground. I’m not really sure how long it will last even if left alone. Anyway, we have enjoyed this large tree for many years and want to plant a new tree that will grow quickly and provide shade. We are located in Phoenix, AZ. I read that ash trees are good in Arizona and grow quickly but curious what kind of tree you would recommend?
Jim says
Sorry I can’t give a good answer. I would say not an ASH but instead an oak. Definitely too different climate then my experience.
Jeff C says
I am 70 years old. We had a large shade tree in our small yard that shaded the whole yard creating a place where we had many music jams and other get together.It died last year and we had to cut it down.I can’t wait 10 years for a small tree to grow big. What do you suggest?
Jim says
Autumn Blaze maple is the 1st one that comes to mind.
Danilo Luigi Bottaro says
Good morning
My name is Danilo Bottaro, GM of Leon srl company
We are looking for acer specimen trees, can you found and supply big red maple specimen or Mature Japanese maple specimen ?
Diameter trunk 1 feet and more if available.
We can do export documents and handling.
Thanks for your fast answer.
Best regards
Erika says
What did you interplant with them in the above photo? Azaleas? We’re putting in a Vanderwolf in about a week, and I’m thinking about companion shrubs.
Steve says
I have a large patio in my back yard with what I think are two large river birch trees providing very nice shade. Unfortunately, these trees are extremely messy all year round. These trees seem to drop something new every month that clogs my gutters. Most recently, it dropped all of its seeds and now I have millions of tiny river birch seedlings growing in my mulch. I would like to remove these trees and replace them with something much cleaner that will grow relatively fast and provide nice shade in the back of my house. The tree will be planted about 30 feet from my house and only about 8 feed from my concrete patio. I live in northern Illinois in a neighborhood with large lots. Any recommendations would be appreciated!
katie says
Illinois has so many great options for trees! Ginkgo, legacy maple, Royal king maple
locust, shumard oak are all great options for you!
Deborah Shelton says
Hi Jim, I live in Winter Park, FL (just outside of Orlando). I planted all the trees on my property 27 years ago (sycamore, maple, tabebuia, nutall oak, shumard oak, chickasaw plum, etc.) and they are mature and beautiful now. Hurricane Irma came though a month ago, and the tornadoes loosened or destroyed several of my trees 🙁 My favorite – a 75′ sycamore – is now leaning 15%. It still looks healthy, but I might have to remove it if it’s so stressed that the weight makes it come down on my house. How can I tell? Can trees recover from that kind of trauma? Would limbing it up help? I’m having to make some hard choices about removing some trees. Any suggestions on what I can do to save it, would be so appreciated.
Jim says
I would recommend a certified arborist to evaluate your trees on site.
paul says
I love how you show the difference between the trees after you’ve planted them and given them time to grow. What kind of tree would you recommend for a swing from http://www.treeswingstore.com ? They aren’t really heavy, but they are solid wood and look really nice , so heavier than just plastic.
Jim says
Pretty much my standard answer for what shade tree should I get is now any member of the white oak group that fits the site and growing conditions. (white,bur, chinkapin, swamp white, and post oaks) Swamp white Oaks are fairly fast growing. Chinkapin are great trees for urban sites with high pH. Of course there are other good trees, but we need more Oaks so that’s my answer.
Heather MacLaren Johnson says
Thanks for this article. I really have my heart set on a Green Mountain Sugar Maple due to its orange fall color and oval canopy shape. One nursery discouraged me from purchasing, saying that sugar maples are “touchy” and suffer die back after transplanting. I am replacing a mature but diseased and dying Canada Red Cherry and want another large tree for this focal point in my front yard. Any suggestions for me?
Jim says
Yes I see you are in WI. Any of the native white oak family members, such as White Oak, Burr Oak, Chinkapin, or Swamp white oak that your nursery sells and you fancy. I think good old White Oak can have the best fall color of those choices but does need a more acid soil then the others. If you are VERY patient for it to grow and can find any of the Hickory (they do NOT transplant well and are not in most nurseries) can have a great golden fall color. That or just try your sugar maple and plant a smaller one so it has less transplant stress (probably not what your nursery wants as smaller trees are cheaper!)
Lala F. says
Hi Jim, as you see, I’m still in search of a shade tree for my backyard. I stcratched the Katsura due to being weak and my bald cypress is in place but won’t give me the shade I need. I went to two nurseries off of Rt.31 and one suggested the Tulip Tree while the other said it was weak. As you know, here in Crystal Lake we get wicked winds (in my opinion). Will a Tulip tree be safe to plant a few feet away from my house?
Thanks,
Lala F.
vivian luo says
Hi Jim, I’m thinking about a ornamental japanese maple tree, has to be smaller sized varieties, such as fireglow or crimson queen, because it’ll be planted in a small area between mine and the neighbor’s house. I saw you mentioned 1″ or 1″ 1/2 trees for bigger shade trees are good for fast establishment. My question is: for japanese maples, what would be the smallest size (in trunk inches) I could consider to buy so the tree will not take forever to reach sizable size?
Vivian
Kathy Kenney says
We have lived in our home for over 30 years in Cleveland Ohio. We had two beaautiful huge oak trees on the tree lawn when we moved in which contributed to our buying the house. Six months after we moved in, we made the huge mistake of calling the city to trim a small branch that had been damaged by a storm. We didn’t want it to fall on someone walking past underneath on the sidewalk. When we came home from work, they had cut the whole tree down by mistake! Now they are going to cut down the other one, which is beautiful, huge, and healthy, because they have to work on the gas lines. They are cutting down other trees all around us leaving our street looking awful. We had planned to retire next year and now feel our property and street has been devalued. We are in our 60s. Is there anything we can do? They will be cutting it down this week which will break our hearts. Thank you.
Jim says
I am sorry to hear that.
Maybe calling the city arborist and gas departments complaining like heck or even getting a lawyer and having them do it.
Can they do the work without cutting the tree down any how? Maybe contact a big tree care company and see if they can offer any suggestions.
If that does not work, maybe it is a chance to redo the landscape into something you will love even more.
Wendi says
Oh, and we already have a Linden in the area that is helping with the western sun angles. It’s about 14 feet.
Wendi says
Hello! Are you still answering questions in this blog? I read this with interest. We have to cut down a Canadian cherry in our front yard that has black knot disease; after trying to keep up with it with regular professional cutting for four years, we’re giving up. The problem is it is on the south side of the house, and I am afraid that without the shade we’re going to lose the hostas and yews that a landscaper (who wasn’t thinking things through, I’m afraid) unfortunately put on the very hot south side of our house–too close up to brick, and we have a garage jutting out that blocks the breeze. They got crispy over the summer. (Suffering plants bother me!) When we lose the cherry, what could we put in instead to quickly help with shade–and how big could we go for how much? The CC is about 25 ft. We live an hour south of Green Bay, Wisconsin.
Jim says
I this the yews will be fine as they don’t require shade they just tolerate it.
Yes, if it is full hot sun you may want to water them a bit more but they should be fine after they adapt to the new growing conditions.
The needles that were grown in full shade will have a hard time, but it will grow new needles and they will adapt after a season.
The Hosta will probably get toasted by the middle of Summer, but they will probably survive.
There are a ton of trees that would work, it really depends on the size of tree you need.
Chinkapin Oak (Quercus muehlenbergii) may be a nice choice if you need a big tree to shade the house (eventually).
Musclewood (Carpinus caroliniana) would be a nice smaller tree, but there are lots of choices.
Charlene says
Hi Jim!!! Do you know what trees I could plant that would grow a massive trunk? I like big giant trunks. I live in Hot Phoenix Arizona.
I’m not a “palm” person.. So don’t suggest a Palm. I also have a picky husband that has to approve of EVERYTHING. Thanks so much Jim for all your fabulous information.
Jim says
In Phoenix? I would suggest going to a botanic garden or arboretum for some better local advice on that one. Given your climate that’s a tough one me to give a decent answer on.
Amelia says
Jim, our town took down all the fully grown trees on our block to install new curbs, aprons, sidewalks and to redo the street. The street looks barren and sad. The plan is to replant trees in the fall and spring in front of each house. They will of course take a very long time to grow to the height of the felled ones. What is the largest tree that can safely be planted on the grassed portion between the sidewalk and curb? I would like to get a petition going to request trees be planted in front of every home and that they be as large as possible. Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Amelia
Jim says
It really depends on the size of the parkway. You can transplant 30 feet tall trees, but I can tell you they won’t fit and the city won’t spend the money for that. It also depends a lot on the type of tree. White Oaks and you are pushing it if you go much over 2 and 1/2 inch caliper. Lots of other trees are fine at 6 inch Caliper. That being said a 6″ tree probably won’t grow much for several years, while a 1″ caliper planted tree will start growing the year after it’s planted (with some assumptions made here). Which will be healthier in 30 years. No doubt in my mind the 1″. It will also be larger.
That being said for years 1-5, yeah the neighborhood will suck if you only planted 1″ trees and I would definitely want at least 3-4″ trees installed to get some feel of trees in my neighborhood right away.
So maybe ask for some 6-8″ or bigger trees. Demand 3-4″ trees, but accept some 1-2″ trees too. Or better yet the homeowners can plant the 1-2″ ones, make the city pay for the bigger ones.
Demand diversity too! I think it is New York City that is going for no more then 5% of any on Genus on new street trees. So not 5% Autumn Blaze Maples, Only 5% ANY MAPLES!, Not 5% Pin Oaks, 5% ANY Oaks!
Most places end up being 50% Ornamental Pears, 25% Honeylocust and 25% Autumn Blaze Maple. (See my post here http://www.yourgardensanctuary.com/time-to-rethink-the-big-shade-tree/)
doug leavitt says
I am planting a privacy mound along the western border of my property to screen a condo development. The mound will be approx. 400 ft x60x10. The landscape architect that the developers hired has cooperated with me and decided to create his mound to use the topsoil that is going to be stripped as opposed to hauling it away. They have given me a preliminary plan but I could use a second opinion on plantings to effectively create a barrier and mass of foliage to help hide the eyesore of a condo development. Can u be of assistance?
Jim says
Sure.
Panagiotis says
Hi, what about palm trees? I want to plant a canary palm how tall it should be?
Thanks.
Jim says
Sorry I have no idea or experience with Palms. Well except during under one on a beach drinking a non disclosed beverage.
Charlene says
Haaa Haa Haa
Melissa R. says
Nice overview on how to think about what size and type of tree to buy. I had never considered planting a temporary shade tree. The idea seems good, but then I don’t think I’d have the heart to chop it down 10 years later. As a side note, the article needs a lot of grammar work/proof reading, which in turn reduced the credibility of the article for me.
Debra Panter says
Please theArticle was fine and very informative why does everybody always pick on everybody else is grammar not all of us are English majors
dean says
REALLY??? the grammer wasn’t to your standards. It’s about trees, give me a break………..
Steve says
Grammer?? What a ridiculous thing to say. This was an excellent, informative article.
Tree Hugger says
Grammer, everybody else is…. These responses prove the point. Basic spellchecking and proofreading don’t require an English degree… And they’re sorely needed in the age of speed-writing on the internet. They slow you down to make your thoughts clearer as well…
Jill Victorio says
do not (not don’t)
Katie says
You’re a blast at parties, ain’t cha?
jennings matheson says
Thanks, Jim – the suggestion to double plant (fast along with slower growing trees) is a great idea – it encourages me to try it — I’m always afraid I haven’t left enough room between trees as my garden is small and it pains me to see trees crowded together b/c full size doesn’t appear to be considered in lots of yards. Keep creating domestic paradises.